Of the two Pauillac properties whose names begin Grand-Puy, it is Grand-Puy-Lacoste that enjoys rather more prestige over Grand-Puy-Ducasse. Turn the clock back to the 1855 classification of the Medoc, though, and they were the same property, Grand Puy. It was awarded fifth-growth status, a distinction both the successor chateaux still hold. But that feels like a sad undervaluing of Grand-Puy-Lacoste, a property that regularly puts many second-growths to shame.

Grand-Puy-Lacoste sits on the western edge of the Pauillac plateau, where the bright white gravel starts to give way to a long slope of darker, finer, silty gravelly sand. The vines are planted to 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Like Batailley, it makes a style of Pauillac that can be particularly animalistic. 2012 Grand-Puy-Lacoste was the star of the tastings show at UGC for me, and I`ve yet to taste a better 1996 claret than glorious GPL. A `mere` fifth-growth? Bah! (NT 24/02/15)