‘Kusuda’s attention to detail is unparalleled, and his rigorous fruit selection would leave an accountant aghast.’ – Rebecca Gibb MW, The Wines of New Zealand

Kusuda has achieved a cult status far outstripping most other New Zealand producers, meaning the small production is hard to come by. Japanese-born ex-lawyer Hiro Kusuda threw over his previous safe career to pursue a lifelong obsession with fine wine. He subsisted without an income (but with a young family!) for almost a decade before this obsession brought returns.

After winemaking studies in Germany were followed by apprenticeships in Australia and Burgundy, Hiro took up a position as a winemaking assistant in Martinborough, at the southern end of New Zealand’s North Island. He then landed on the opportunity to lease a small but particularly well-favoured Pinot Noir vineyard, in time to make his own wine for the 2002 vintage. It was a success. By 2006 he was in the position to buy his first vineyard, of some well-tended Syrah.

Hiro takes winemaking and vineyard management very seriously. His fanatical attention to detail gets very expensive – every single grape is checked before it gets to the vat. He is helped by some very dedicated followers who travel from Japan to volunteer in the vineyard. The result is a set of reliably pure, intensely fine wines, released only when Hiro considers them ready to leave the cellar. (NT 14/08/25)